FOOD FINDS
By Don Napier
In my family, they are known as “Mama’s pumpkin pies.” I realize that most everyone would say that their mother was a good cook, or maybe they would say that nobody could cook like mama! And no doubt, there is a great deal of truth in that.
My mother, Edwina Napier, had quite a reputation for her cooking, having written a newspaper column, which included recipes, for 38 years. But she would tell you that when she was a young married woman, she was quite limited in what she could cook. Thus, the effect of experience. But no doubt, she could make a mean pumpkin pie (or should I say, 8 pumpkin pies?) We had a large family.
Most people associate pumpkin pies with Thanksgiving and we do too, but I wouldn’t turn down a slice of pumpkin pie in July. It is my favorite pie. As I am writing this, Thanksgiving will come and go before you are holding this issue in your hand, so you can do what I like to do, and have pumpkin pie at Christmas time too.
Now if you are one of those people who get your pumpkin from a can, I feel a bit sorry for you. Pumpkin pie requires a pumpkin or a Cushaw. A Cushaw is a greenstriped squash but the flesh inside is all pumpkin.
The Cushaw is grown from an heirloom seed that is sometimes known as a “Tennessee Sweet Potato.” It is prolific when grown, is resistant to vine borers, and grows well in hot, dry climates like ours. Since they are not as popular as other squash varieties, you don’t see many of them in markets. You can get them on R&R Market on Dayton Mountain.
Cushaws get large, so one will have enough “meat” for three pies, or six if you make two thin pies to a recipe, like my mother did. I have found the best way to cook Cushaw, like a pumpkin, is to half or quarter it, take out the seeds and place on a single layer on a baking sheet and bake or you can boil after cutting into chunks.
It was my mother who told me about the Cushaw. I even saw some displayed at Food City this year, so its not much of secret any more.
Here is my mother’s pumpkin pie recipe, that she called, the “Mimi Recipe.” Mimi was her mother, Gladys Hargrove. Now that mama is no longer with us,
they are made for our family gatherings by my sister Linda, in a few years, they might be remembered by another generation as Nanny Linda’s pumpkin pies. And so it goes.
Mama’s Cushaw Pie
(makes 2 thin pies)
2 c. cooked Cushaw 2 T. butter melted 1/2 c. sugar
1/2 c. brown sugar 2 eggs
2 T. flour
1 t. ginger
1 t. cinnamon 1/2 t. salt
1/4 t. allspice 1/4 t. nutmeg 1 c. milk
Beat eggs and combine with sugar, flour, salt and spices. Add pumpkin/cushaw and butter. Add milk last. Mix well. Pour into two unbaked pie shells. Use regular size (not deep dish) Pet Ritz shells. Bake @ 375 degrees for 45 minutes. Refrigerate, serve with cool whip or whipped cream.
The Soup Man
John Forte’ is an accomplished chef, there’s no doubt about that. I am a regular at Forte’s for lunch and thoroughly enjoy all of John’s dishes, but I am particularly impressed with his soups. Since I am lactose intolerant, I cannot have any of his soups which contain milk or cream, and several of them do. But the ones I can have are excellent, and I hear other diners
commenting about them too.
Sometimes, on the weekend, when I cannot have the soup of the day, I will order his French Onion Soup. It is the king of soups and since it has no milk, is my favorite. It is a meal in itself. It is so good, you don’t even mind burning the roof of your mouth. Try one. (served only at night). Forte’s is open for lunch, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday evenings from 4 9 p.m.